<rapha>
t4nk_freenode: we've got a laser cutting shop in town and they have crazy affordable prices for one-offs ... they do alu, steel, even titanium up to 6mm. perhaps you have one, too, and just don't know about them?
<t4nk_freenode>
I have no interest for that at all
<InPhase>
rapha: There are quite a lot of them around me.
<t4nk_freenode>
I'm looking to make my own
<ccox_>
quite a few here in SFBay as well
<InPhase>
rapha: Although I'm near a city.
<rapha>
t4nk_freenode: you do realize for it to be useful for steel, what ccox_ said is _very_ true?
<t4nk_freenode>
I'm not after a laser cutter either ;)
<t4nk_freenode>
but I would like to build a better cnc machine than I have now
<t4nk_freenode>
just can't make up my mind on what to go for
<t4nk_freenode>
about 1m² work area would be nice
<JakeSays>
i wonder if there's any around here
<JakeSays>
t4nk_freenode: i want a 3d printer that size
<t4nk_freenode>
lol, so you can grow and shave 3 beards while the print runs ;)
<JakeSays>
lol no it'll be a very fast printer
<t4nk_freenode>
heh, what I'd _really_ like when it comes to 3d printing... is very high resolution
<t4nk_freenode>
so I could make ic test sockets and such
<JakeSays>
i make those now with .2mm nozzles
<t4nk_freenode>
I experimented a bit when I just got my printer, got .1mm nozzles too
<JakeSays>
well, not ic sockets but test rigs for boards
<t4nk_freenode>
but I don't think it's quite possible
<t4nk_freenode>
yeah
<t4nk_freenode>
the resolution just isn't there
<JakeSays>
what resolution do you need?
<rapha>
t4nk_freenode: ic test sockets for what kind of ICs? because if they're DIP you might well get good enough resolution out of a commercial printer for home use.
<JakeSays>
rapha: DIP's are easily doable on my ender3
<Jack22>
Also maybe it is easier to create new text and extrude it
<InPhase>
MartynGriffin: When I said "thin rectangle" I meant cube, using one dimension very small to only select out the surface edge with the text.
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<MartynGriffin>
reseting now.
<rapha>
Jack22: https://i.imgur.com/0q3Zkpl.jpg ... fits like a glove! the secret sauce was to make the walls thin enough and just the right size at the base and the slight differences in shape even themselves out.
<rapha>
now "just" need to finish up the motor adapter, install the power train, see if it fits length-wise and then decide for a color to print the final version in.
<Jack22>
rapha: happy to hear .. be careful with pla as it can get hot around the motor
<rapha>
Jack22: not my first rodeo ;)
<Jack22>
you can also use it as a mold to laminate with gfk/cfk
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<rapha>
good lord, buy even more stuff? nah, the cowl is far enough away laterally and the adapter is too much aft of where it gets really hot. first time i made an adapter i put cardboard in between the motor and the adapter until it became clear not even that is necessary.
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<rapha>
things might change if i get into 3D flying more. but that's one of those bridges to cross once you get to it.
<rapha>
actually, my old workplace throws huge amounts of cfk cloth cuttings out each week and they have everything that's needed. we've used 3d prints as molds before there and it does work beautifully. it's just that here it would be complete overkill. sure, the parts might end up a few grams heavier than the original ones were, but so i just move the battery back a millimeter, that's enough.
<MartynGriffin>
all done, worked like a charm. many thanks.
<Jack22>
MartynGriffin: fantastic
<Jack22>
rapha: i assume the mold was printed in sections or was it a very big printer?
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<Jack22>
you can also fill the print with plaster and then heat vaccum form sheet plastic around - like the orginal part was done
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<rapha>
in sections, Jack22 ... but i only did the prints (on my puny 15x23cm bed of what used to be an ender2 and is now, well, the very unique device i call a printer) and then my boss glued it together made a mold from it. he's good with these things and i don't care :)
<rapha>
before that he used to have glass fiber molds made in hungary which always cost him half a fortune