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<J4l13n>
Hello, is it possible to import an stl and make it transparent like with the %
<J4l13n>
import("piece.stl", % );
<peeps[win]>
J4l13n, %import("piece.stl");
<J4l13n>
arf, simply...
<J4l13n>
thank you
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<J22>
color(alpha=.4) is another option so it still get rendered
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<J4l13n>
also but, we do not see through the object
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<J22>
that depends on the order when it is drawn
<J22>
cube();
<J22>
color(alpha=.1)cube(5,center=true); //<− When drawn last you see objects drawn before
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<InPhase>
My 5 year old wanted to make a large wooden bow... I talked him down to a plastic / rubberband bow with macaroni shaped hooks. https://i.imgur.com/1mb4WyM.png
<InPhase>
I am reusing the strategy from yesterday's discussion of adding some gluestick glue to avoid introducing the flat spot for printing. :)
<teepee>
heh, sounds like a win-win talking down :)
<teepee>
gluestick? where on the build plate as support?
<teepee>
OlivierChafik[m]: nice, I'll have a look, just trying to fix the snap build first
<teepee>
looks like their documentation is obsolete and now I'm not sure how to fix the ARM build :(
<othx>
Scopeuk linked to "Ballista (crossbow) print in place by senns" on thingiverse => 1 IRC mentions
<Scopeuk>
although the darts go much better if you just slot them over the nozzle on some "air duster"
<InPhase>
teepee: Yeah. I have an old printer with an aluminum-only build plate that I never upgraded, so there's always a gluestick layer applied after each time I clean it. I put down fresh glue for the tricky sticking items.
<InPhase>
The recommendation in that era was to put down painter's tape, which I tried for a bit, but the painter's tape is constantly needing replaced. The gluestick layer approach just worked better and is easy to touch-up, so there's a lot less maintenance.
<InPhase>
It really doesn't take much glue, since it lasts a long time and glue sticks are far cheaper than the filament for the amounts required.
<InPhase>
Scopeuk: Nice. Good use there of flexible zig-zags. :)
<InPhase>
Scopeuk: I'm planning folded paper arrows, so that no 5 year olds shoot anyone's eyes out.
<Scopeuk>
always a good plan, I imagine also controlling the amount of power in the elastic
<InPhase>
Yep.
<InPhase>
It should launch a paper arrow across a room I figure. But we'll see. :)
<teepee>
nice, I've seen the gluestick way in the past but never used it myself
<teepee>
on good old ultimaker without heated bed, I has some white tape which worked quite well
<teepee>
never really liked the blue tape
<InPhase>
Yeah, the blue tape also left blue marks. :)
<InPhase>
The glue stick tends to be invisible, and washes off.
<InPhase>
On those many small part prints, like when I print a bunch of wall anchors, or a bunch of nuts and bolts, I just put them in a cup to soak in soapy water for 30 minutes and the glue stick cleans itself up. On the big parts I just give them a faster scrub.
<InPhase>
It's not as convenient as the modern build surface polymers, but I think the glue stick approach is about the best adhesion you can get while still being removable. I have never had adhesion problems at all other than "Guess I need a fresh glue stick layer for this one", and then it works, even if it's a fairly small adhesion point.
<InPhase>
Assuming an alignment even close to the surface. :)
<teepee>
haha, right, still no printing in the air support :)
<linext>
yea, i guess i could just take a 3d model or simple shape, and take the difference as a test
<linext>
like a 10cm cube with a few voids inside of 3d shapes
<linext>
the question is whether the void with uncured resin would be visible after finish curing
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<J22>
linext these laser engraving using a normal 3D file (stl/3mf ) those files are generated from images
<J22>
if you just make a void .. ensure the resin can flow out .. then after curing and polish the outside you will see the void inside
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<J22>
Those Laser glas engraving create little holes which reflect the light .. so you would need to create voids on the outside of your geometry - which is tricky but with other tools (meshmixer) very easy (create pattern)
<J22>
but this can't work with resin as you would need channels to empty those while printing
<J22>
linext you know the surface() module?
<Scopeuk>
J22 I wonder if the refractive index of cured vs uncured resin is enough even without emptying it (for some resins). I've not really played with it enough to know
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<J22>
like ice in water? .. and after a while the uncured will cure (except you live in a dark cave )