teepee changed the topic of #openscad to: OpenSCAD - The Programmers Solid 3D CAD Modeller | This channel is logged! | Website: http://www.openscad.org/ | FAQ: https://goo.gl/pcT7y3 | Request features / report bugs: https://goo.gl/lj0JRI | Tutorial: https://bit.ly/37P6z0B | Books: https://bit.ly/3xlLcQq | FOSDEM 2020: https://bit.ly/35xZGy6 | Logs: https://bit.ly/32MfbH5
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<J2317> inPhase  Thanks, but i am not sure it would make a good entry as it is a lot of code  and needs 1min for preview as with increased resolution this went drastically up
<J2317> btw do we already have a SCADvent23 folder ?
<J2317> only 235 days left - just saying
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<peepsalot> nice pics, glad you're enjoying the cubic interpolation code
<J2317> thanks - not pretending i would understand how it works though
<J2317> is there a reason this is only on gist and not your github repository?
<guso78[m]> Lf94 IT appears that you apply random only to z axis
<peepsalot> J2317: for single scripts i mostly just put them up on gist and haven't bothered creating a whole repo. i have been meaning to compile some of my examples like that into some kind of collection though
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<lf94> guso78[m]: could be, I dunno anymore, but I gave up trying lol
<lf94> The fact it generates some sort of recognizeable noise is fine for me for now
<lf94> I refined my bindings a ton because of it :)
<lf94> The refinement I did should make it easier to transition to fidget
<lf94> at the moment Im doing an experiment with printing magic the gathering cards
<lf94> 0.1mm print height - the cards are 0.3mm in height
<lf94> I thought concentric would be a good infill but it causes the card to bend toward the middle
<lf94> So Im trying zigzag now
<lf94> I'm trying to figure out how to do the card text next
<lf94> I need to some how get the printer to stop after layer 3, let me filament switch, and then go back to layer 3, and print the text
<lf94> probably gonna involve some gcode hacks
<lf94> layer 3 will leave "holes" for the white filament
<lf94> I may try doing text first as layer 1 though if zigzag looks good
<J2317> lf94 you can make 2 files (or in 3mf) so like with MMU one file are the inlays at layer 3 which is printed with a different filament "in mid air" after the base print was done
<J2317> use z-hop !
<lf94> all in cura?
<J2317> yes
<lf94> Do you have a somewhat explained process I can read? :o
<lf94> If I can print decent playing cards this opens a few doors
<J2317> it is like dual extruder or MMU work  .. just  with a single
<lf94> I've never tried with dual extruder :p
<lf94> I would *love* to hear more J2317
<lf94> I'm currently working on differencing() some text outta the top layer
<J2317> think about like  printing a cube (file A) and another cube (file B) that is on top ..    you can combine files or objects  (merge / group)
<J2317> with 3mf the advantage is that they are placed where you rendered them so alignement is easier
<J2317> with lazy union you can make the separate object in one file
<J2317> for the german scores i made inlays as extra file here https://www.printables.com/model/459522-scrabble
<J2317> lf94 here https://imgur.com/a/1TZdq5h  i have merged both objects .. you can see how the letter is printed inside the groove ..  so without dual extrusion you just ungroup the model and remove one - slice and safe as color A .. then go back remove the other ↦ slice ↦ safe as color B gcode ..   print A change color print B into existing
<J2317> print (use z-hop bigger the depth of the groove)
<J2317> second image https://imgur.com/a/1TZdq5h  shows the separated objects  - i moved one to the side for demonstration
<lf94> when my printer finishes though it goes home
<lf94> do you add some sort of gcode to stop it?
<J2317> no these are two files
<J2317> you can put both into one file with a filament change  but  imho this doesn't make this easier
<J2317> you may disable "drop objects on bed"   so you can print mid air
<lf94> hm
<J2317> but afaik 3mf files will not be dropped anyway
<lf94> how do you stop the printer to make the filament change
<lf94> oh
<lf94> you do it within cura vs within the file
<lf94> you do it within cura and not the model file
<lf94> this works for me, because 3mf isnt a format I can export to :D.
<J2317> you print the first object/gcode  and then after it finished you leave on the board .. change the filament and print the second into
<J2317> scad can export 3mf
<lf94> aaaaaaaah. so it doesnt matter if it goes home after printing. if your 2nd model is "print in the air", it'll be just fine!
<lf94> nice nice nice...
<lf94> yeah I know, im not using scad :')
<lf94> maybe when manifold is done, I can add openscad as a backend to my JS stuff
<lf94> have you seen it?
<J2317> you can remove the homing for the second print  - but ideally it should home to the same coordinates (maybe if your printer is not warmed up there can be slight difference)
<lf94> yeah exactly
<lf94> it shouldnt matter about homing
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<J2317> with flat objects there shouldn't be an issue .. on higher you need to check how your homing works so it doesn't collide with the gantry
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<lf94> J2317: is it possible to influence the print path without creating a new layer? does that make sense?
<lf94> I guess you have to like have a super ultra small gap between the "graphic" and the rest of the layer?
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<lf94> J2317: how do you import them to overlap?
<lf94> Am I going to have to manually position them?...
<J2317> no gap needed .. if they overlap you can't get a clean print .. if overlaps are sliced in one file there are different solutions how cura solve overlapping geometry
<J2317> just  make a cube and double it  then put both on the same location and mark them and make a group .. then you will see overlapping
<J2317> you can influence the path by making two objects in the same layer
<lf94> How do I import these 2 objects, card and card text, so that they align when imported?
<J2317> lf94 here https://www.printables.com/model/151070-capped-wall-hook  you see how the inlay was printed with the same extruder but as the inlay is a grouped geometry it is visible because metallic filament shows the extrusion path due to the orientation of particles
<lf94> Yeah! that's what I was wondering about for printing a graphic on one side of the card
<J2317> if you can't use 3mf with the proper positions you can choose "merge"
<lf94> but I'm getting ahead of myself
<lf94> merge in cura?
<J2317> mark two objects  -- right click ↦ merge
<J2317> is like group but  both will be aligned
<J2317> it can be usefull to choose a wider line for the infill so the nozzle will not collide as the nozzle has a bigger diameter than the normal extruded line .. but if a .4 nozzle extrudes .6 or .8  that is minimized .. airbrush nozzles are ideal for these inlays
<guso78> still fighting with the files missed in the windows installation. it appears to me, the most obvious file scripts/installer.nsi is not used ... and i cant find the replacement for it ...
<lf94> Im using 0.2mm nozzle
<lf94> Ok so theyre merged and I centered
<lf94> now what? XD
<lf94> sorry, I feel very clueless here...
<J2317> now ungroup them so you can remove/disable one for slicing
<lf94> ok I was on the right path with that one lol
<lf94> how do I disable <_>
<lf94> cant find it in the left menu nor right click menu
<lf94> Do I just delete it
<lf94> Im surprised I cant just disable...
<J2317> either delete .. or move outside (and then after slice and safe undo this)  or you can use  something like "don't support overlaps"  which is for something different but will mark that object as "not printable"
<J2317> yeah it is sad that the object list doesn't have the option to deactivate or change order
<lf94> hm, weird
<lf94> so i want to actually print the card with the text facing down toward the build plate, so there's overhangs, which is fine, because the text is being printed first
<lf94> but when i go to slice the "embedded" text in the card disappears
<lf94> must have to do with overhangs?
<J2317> objects don't disappear  because of  overhangs
<J2317> what happens if you remove the outside object .. can you print just the embedded text?
<J2317> maybe it is under the build plate?
<lf94> it was because I set the slicing threshold to "inclusive"
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<lf94> aight, here we go!
<lf94> I'm not going to mess with changing filament for now
<lf94> Ill print one, print the other, and just see what it's like
<J2317> if you have some silky or metallic filament you will still see the different inlay path
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<lf94> shouldve put on retraction for the text
<lf94> oh i do have it on
<lf94> should put it higher I guess
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<guso78> found out that the CMakeLists.txt has lots of install statements - exacly what i need ...
<peepsalot> I feel like i told you that about a week ago
<lf94> lol
<lf94> in general, Cmake will have everything related to building and installation
<guso78> peepsalot yep, this is correct. you told me that everything is done with cpack instead now.
<guso78> but it did not make sense to me then ... :')
<guso78> its ok, sometimes i need to learn it "the hard way"
<lf94> J2317: welp, that totally failed
<lf94> using the same color, it just melted all together lol.
<lf94> I can barely make out where it wouldve been
<lf94> J2317: is it worth it to color by hand you think?
<lf94> im thinking yes
<J2317> if it wouldn't melt together - it would be a bad print
<lf94> yeah x)
<J2317> not sure what you will color by hand.. if you leave a groove open you can fill with paint
<lf94> yeah exactly
<lf94> nail polish
<lf94> i want to ask also: if I used a different color, would it have come out as blobby text?
<J2317> if you sand it you can get very nice results https://www.printables.com/model/453296-z-axis-lead-screw-position-marker
<J2317> but wouldn't it be easier to make the filament change?
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<lf94> I think it's a better outcome for like ~10 more minutes of sit-down work
<lf94> if I had a dual extruder i'd do that
<lf94> I have 45 cards to print
<lf94> so ... too much printing process can be annoying
<lf94> I can sit down and fill in the 45 gaps after
<lf94> not a huge deal
<lf94> like, I can't also waste time hoping that the text doesnt leave behind stringing
<lf94> I would love to hear or brainstorm about better painting techniques though
<lf94> I'm thinking that surely, there's some sort of "dipping" we can do
<lf94> or like, pour paint over, and then wipe the excess, and let dry
<lf94> so dont have to be precise
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<lf94> welp that didnt work either: printing on the face down, the text shows through the back :).
<lf94> I should just like... calculate how much filament I need and splice two colors together
<InPhase> lf94: Black filament, white sand, polyurethane spray?
<lf94> InPhase: more details
<InPhase> lf94: Well I'd use black filament for cards to reduce see-through. Which means you need a light colored material that you can fill recessed text with.
<lf94> yes, im using black
<lf94> but what i mean is
<lf94> Im printing the card recesses downward toward the plate
<InPhase> lf94: And you want something you can just apply into the holes and brush off the excess. And then you want a sealant that you can apply without disrupting it. And polyurethane spray does stick adequately to filament.
<lf94> I thought they'd be bridged nicely, and they were, but the first layer melts together too much and closes it off
<InPhase> If you apply a liberal coating it should actually soak in between sand, and secure it firmly I think.
<lf94> and also it shows through the backside, most likely because of "sag" toward the bed
<lf94> so having a smooth card face is a no go. the back will be smooth instead
<InPhase> Nah, print the recesses on the top.
<lf94> yeah exactly. doing another test
<lf94> ill show you pics of it all after
<lf94> pretty neat
<lf94> I learned concentric infill is really bad for this. the material pulls up on itself in the middle, causing a bad bend
<InPhase> You want overfill on these cards as well, so make sure you are using a high enough flow rate.
<lf94> overfill?
<InPhase> You don't want gaps between the lines.
<lf94> why
<lf94> oh
<lf94> it's hard to overfill just enough isnt it?
<lf94> i have to adjust flow rate constantly
<lf94> i'd have to
<lf94> until I see it's working
<lf94> white sand is a good idea
<InPhase> I'd just fudge it up 10% and call it a day.
<lf94> lol
<lf94> i'll give it a shot right after
<lf94> each print is about ~1 hour
<InPhase> For just one card?
<lf94> yep
<lf94> 50m/s
<lf94> 0.2mm nozzle head
<lf94> 0.1mm print height
<InPhase> How big are these things?
<lf94> magic the gathering card size
<lf94> any larger for nozzle head, cant read the text.
<lf94> any larger for print height, outside of regulation size.
<lf94> (0.3mm height)