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<sorear>
wb
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<whitequark>
cr1901: btw, mind updating the topic on the libera channels? the guidelines still have the same requirement re: logging
cr1901 changed the topic of ##yamahasynths to: Channel dedicated to questions and discussion of Yamaha FM Synthesizer internals and corresponding REing. Discussion of synthesis methods similar to the Yamaha line of chips, Sound Blasters + clones, PCM chips like RF5C68, and CD theory of operation are also on-topic. Channel logs: https://libera.irclog.whitequark.org/~h~yamahasynths
<whitequark>
discferret too?
<cr1901>
Sent a msg, I don't have ops there
<NiGHTS>
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<cr1901>
Message added to discferret
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<cr1901>
Spance?
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<NiGHTS>
[freenode] <andlabs> is libera broken for anyone else
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<cr1901>
It's working for me... looks like a good ol' netsplit?
* KitsuWhooa
looks at the stack of 20 bulged through hole caps that he replaced a few days ago
<andlabs>
it's not about reliability
<andlabs>
it's about repairability
<andlabs>
right to repair means jack shit if only elite military-grade-soldering-skill people with 20/5 vision can do it
<KitsuWhooa>
have you tried desoldering a tht cap on a multi layer pcb? :p
<andlabs>
or the 8-bit guy I guess, who keeps complaining about bad vision and is also colorblind, but did the repair on the same model I have because his had the exact same symptoms I'm having
<andlabs>
that is, the speaker is squealing like a tea kettle
<andlabs>
amazingly, his video and two forum posts are the only things I can find on this problem
<andlabs>
and one of those forum posts, from 2009, says "just junk the system; the LC II isn't worth it"
<KitsuWhooa>
twisting a surface mount cap off and bodging a tht one on top is so much easier than desoldering a cap on a socket 775 era motherboard
<KitsuWhooa>
and I mean, there are magnifying glass things you can wear
<andlabs>
aren't those all multi-layer boards
<KitsuWhooa>
they are
<KitsuWhooa>
and it's a huge pain
<andlabs>
can't have a through-hole on those :3
<KitsuWhooa>
wut
<andlabs>
meh IDK
<andlabs>
I'm just complaining now
<andlabs>
anyway
<andlabs>
retrohacks.net doesn't seem to do macintoshes and despite cr1901's efforts that ohpoorpup person doesn't seem to want to do business with me so I guess I'll be asking around
<andlabs>
oh wait they do allow asking for a quote on unlisted thing
<andlabs>
s
<andlabs>
but I'm not sure if my first email ever even got through
<Ultrasauce>
this rework is more approachable than you think it is
<andlabs>
yeah
<andlabs>
s/complaining/whining/ above
<andlabs>
meh I'll show my father the video and maybe then he'll do it
<andlabs>
I tried showing him the captan tape and heat gun thing for the CD32 and he rejected it so
<Ultrasauce>
100% doable with an iron
<Ultrasauce>
as KitsuWhooa mentioned they have leads on the bottom that are flexible so you can remove them mechanically without disturbing the solder joint, then desolder each of the leads separately
<Ultrasauce>
or alternatively flow one of the joints and bend the other lead
<Ultrasauce>
just apply flux and fresh solder first and it will go quite smoothly
<KitsuWhooa>
well...
<KitsuWhooa>
unless the capacitor has spewed its guts everywhere :p
<KitsuWhooa>
which doesn't seem to be the case above
<Ultrasauce>
yeah some signs of leakage but no oxidation
<andlabs>
those legs indicate otherwise?
<andlabs>
*those chip legs
<Ultrasauce>
go at it with isopropanol and a qtip first
<KitsuWhooa>
I have a game gear I need to scrub with a toothbrush at some point. :p
<andlabs>
now whether that also works with a CD32
<KitsuWhooa>
all of the caps on it leaked and it got everywhere and corroded vias
<andlabs>
that's another question entirely
<KitsuWhooa>
what's special about the CD32?
<andlabs>
I don't know if they built it differently or not
<andlabs>
[19:26:40] <Ultrasauce>as KitsuWhooa mentioned they have leads on the bottom that are flexible so you can remove them mechanically without disturbing the solder joint, then desolder each of the leads separately
<andlabs>
referring to this
<KitsuWhooa>
same thing
<Ultrasauce>
more likely to be th caps in that era but yeah the same techniques apply
<KitsuWhooa>
I'd avoid using a heat gun to remove caps
<ejs>
i've had a smt cap explode using the heat gun trick
<KitsuWhooa>
likewise
<ejs>
i much prefer using the side cutter trick. the pliers trick is a great way to trash your rare amiga 4000
<KitsuWhooa>
I've used both with success
<KitsuWhooa>
well, twisting the cap
<ejs>
many, many people have been screwed by using the twisting technique on amigas
<ejs>
they are cheaply manufactured boards and the pads just come right off
<KitsuWhooa>
ah, I see
<KitsuWhooa>
Yeah, then using side cutters is probably the best way of going about with the CD32
<ejs>
it's also important to neutralize the mildly acidic capacitor electrolyte
<ejs>
i use baking soda dissolved in distilled water
<ejs>
basically you put it on, let it sit for a bit, sometimes it bubbles or foams
<ejs>
then rinse it off with IPA
<Ultrasauce>
anyway i discourage the self-defeating notion that smt rework is difficult and requires specialized equipment
<Ultrasauce>
practice on some random thrift store electronics if you have to
<KitsuWhooa>
now on the other hand, if we could get rid of BGAs... =p
<ejs>
yeah BGAs get trickier. this is why my Graphics Gremlin uses no BGA parts, just regular SMD.