ghane changed the topic of #solvespace to: SolveSpace--parametric 2d/3d CAD - latest version 3.0 - http://solvespace.com - https://github.com/solvespace/solvespace - This channel is being publicly logged on https://libera.irclog.whitequark.org/solvespace
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<freem> for people doing 3D printing: https://github.com/solvespace/solvespace/issues/1169
<freem> or I should say, for happy owners of 3D printers able to switch materials who regrets it's a pain to use that with solvespace ;à
<freem> ;)
<ghane> freem: nice, I have not tried printing multi color/material yet, I am having more problems with splitting and exporting individual parts for post print assembly
<freem> post print assembly?
<ghane> yes, splitting a model in half to it can be printed in optimal orientation and then assembling/gluing together for example
<freem> oh
<freem> I never tried to glue models together yet
<freem> dominoes are rather small things :)
<ghane> I am currently drawing some test boxes for loudspeakera :)
<ghane> ordered 1.8mm nozzle yesterday :-D
<freem> heh
<freem> I have a prusa MK2, that I upgraded into MK2.5S MMU
<ghane> heh
<ghane> same here
<ghane> Or, well, the MMU is still in its box
<freem> well
<freem> the mmu makes things both easier and harder
<ghane> And it is a MK2.5S Half Bear now
<freem> it makes the single printing a lot more resilient ironically
<ghane> Yes, I was not really convinced so I did not want to mount it
<ghane> I am building a second one, extended height Bear frame, will probably add the MMU to that one
<freem> but it fails to load from time to time, and when you have multi-material models, it can happen at each layer
<freem> overall, I'm happy with the MMU
<freem> I still have troubles, but the printer is still not in a case
<ghane> Yes, I think the fail-over for empty spools is probably the best feature
<freem> oh, not just empty spools
<freem> I find it globally more efficient than the MK2
<ghane> We started having heatbreak overheating / filament stuck issues with our MK3 when we put it in an enclosure at work...
<freem> I did both the MK2 to MK2.5S and MK2.5S to MK2.5S MMU in a single step though
<freem> oh
<ghane> Ah, hehe, I was just going to ask what improved
<freem> what kind of enclosure?
<ghane> I did all the steps, MK2->MK2.5->MK2.5S->Half-Bear->Bear-Extruder
<ghane> IKEA based (not the LACK thing)
<freem> I think, but I'm not sure, I originally bought the MK2
<freem> then I bought both MK2.5 and MMU upgrades
<freem> maybe I had MK2S
<freem> I'm a newbie in the area
<freem> one think I know though, is that I can mount and dismount it without the doc now
<freem> also, I need to design something better for that stupid LCD screen
<freem> it's less annoying when *not* attached to the case
<ghane> haha, some prusa-clones have it moved to the top of the frame, think that might be better in some situations
<freem> some?
<freem> I'd say most
<ghane> I think I got worse print quality but better stability when switching to the S or 2.5 thing...
<freem> personnally, if I had time for that, I'd just add the controller a good old EIA385 bus and optionally drive it from a computer
<freem> I have not printed enought stuff to say
<freem> to me, 3D print with additive tech is really to create prototypes
<ghane> I do not really feel that the display is for much use these days
<freem> yep
<freem> I'd rather have the display emit stuff on network
<ghane> It was a huge improvement from USB-printing from a laptop which is how I started
<freem> now
<ghane> then the LCD-display and SD-card printing was a great improvement
<freem> to have the 3D printer autonomous is a good thing
<ghane> but then, moving to octoprint or such is way more convenient, and also very stable
<freem> that's what allows people like me to use it
<freem> I still have to do the move to octoprint
<ghane> (I started out with an Ultimaker Original, or rather Ultimaker Beta since it was not really ready when I got it)
<freem> keep in mind that prusa, as I imagine it, wants to make 3D print available for all
<freem> in my circle, the MK2.5S seems like magic to many people, and I'm in france
<ghane> There are still some annoyances with connection when the printer is "busy" when using Octoprint, for example cancel an ongoing print is sluggish, but apart from that I really recommend you to try it
<ghane> Easy to set up and you can "just click print in PrusaSlicer"
<freem> I intend to change the tool into a proper networked printer
<freem> this includes a camera and enclosure
<ghane> Yes, camera is useful
<ghane> Just remember that you will need a fan to keep the temp down if you put it in an enclosure and print PLA at least
<freem> of course
<freem> 2 fans, and several temp sensors
<freem> 1 fan to put air in, one to put air out, sensors to know when to put air in or out
<ghane> Yes, unless you have passive vents for one of them... it is a bit tricky since you don't want airflow around the heat bed
<ghane> I was working with a fan device a while back (air cleaner), had it in the room where I keep the printer...
<ghane> ...all prints failed when it was turned on, caused the prints to come off the print bed mid print all the time
<freem> hmm... maybe, place a heat/cool thingy under the heatbed
<freem> whats the name already
<freem> one face hot, other cold, when a current is put
<ghane> peltier element?
<freem> yes
<freem> ty
<freem> sometimes words go away
<ghane> they are power hungry
<freem> really?
<freem> better to use good old refrigeration systems then?
<ghane> It was many years since I played with them, I had two which I planned to use for computer cooling ~20 years ago :D
<ghane> I think they were like 50% efficient, so you had twice the heat on the hot side compared to what you "removed" from the cold side
<ghane> anyway, time to say good night here, need to go up early tomorrow, expecting FedEx :)
<freem> gnight
<freem> I'll move main focus on unvanquished-dev then :p