ghane changed the topic of #solvespace to: SolveSpace--parametric 2d/3d CAD - latest version 3.1 - http://solvespace.com - https://github.com/solvespace/solvespace - This channel is being publicly logged on https://libera.irclog.whitequark.org/solvespace
<il> I should get vernier calipers, I don't thing guesstimating dimensions is the ideal way to model stuff lol
* oldlaptop emits an uncomfortable forced smile
<oldlaptop> Calipers are pretty much mandatory.
<oldlaptop> Not sure if you want vernier calipers specifically - I'd rather have a dial on analog ones
<oldlaptop> (then again technically digital calipers are vernier calipers)
<ghane> dial or digital are easier to read / less likely to read incorrectly
<ghane> shitty digital ones are waste of money since they are always out of batteries ;-)
<ghane> I'm not sure if it's just my brain, but I find the 0.05mm graded ones easier/faster to read than 0.02mm (assuming metric), I'm using this one I think: https://shop.mitutoyo.se/web/mitutoyo/en_SE/all/all/Vernier%20Caliper/$catalogue/mitutoyoData/PR/530-122/index.xhtml
<ghane> il: ^
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<il> Yeah, I'm looking at vernier scale mitutoyo one (against your advice heh)
<il> Like with many other things, I prefer doing things the harder way :D
<il> (and they're not as expensive as good quality digital calipers)
<il> I think the model name of the one I might get is a 530-101
<il> I got some extremely cheap plastic ones today, should be good for fixing some models and sketching some stuff up, I just prefer to find out things are stupidly 'out of spec' before printing a part for an hour lol
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<ghane> 530-101 seems good
<ghane> i would not recommend against it :)
<ghane> the mitutoyos are a joy to use, really high quality
<ghane> I decided against digital once sence they were too expensive (especally mitutoyos solar powered with absolute scale)
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<oldlaptop> cheap plastic calipers are probably good enough for any FDM application
<oldlaptop> the printer is probably still no more dimensionally accurate than those
<ghane> true, but less enjoyable to use
<ghane> well, if you can measure properly you would know how inaccurte the printer is
<oldlaptop> The local hardware store around here carries these, reasonably nice https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/measure-and-marking-tools/measuring-devices/21453
<oldlaptop> the box proclaims them to be Swiss made (?!)
<oldlaptop> presumably not as kinesthetically pleasing as serious machinist's calipers :)
<ghane> so that is like half the price of a simple mitutoyo
<ghane> but with dial
<ghane> nice
<il> that is nice
<il> I'm still learning solvespace and right now I'm printing the first slightly more complicated part (still nothing very complex)
<il> It had some issues, but the export worked (even with errors), and the slicer fixed the errors
<ghane> quite common to have some errors in the stl
<il> The auto-orientation tool in the slicer is very neat, it did what I would've done manually (flip the model so the bulk is on the print bed, less support needed)
<ghane> nice
<ghane> which slicer were you using?
<il> anyway, the model is a remote holder for my speaker remote, it should be able to clip onto my computor desk leg
<il> ghane: orca
<il> I didn't expect to be printing this much, I think I'll go through the first kilo of filament in 5 days lol
<ghane> should perhaps try orca
<ghane> i never tried it
<il> So many things are very accessible, I did spiral first layer on one of the prints, for example
<il> came out beautifully
<il> Though, I am using a marble filament which makes first layer pattern much less visible
<ghane> hillbert curve first layer is an interesting effect if you want first layer pattern btw
<il> I know what hilbert curve is, but I can't imagine what it would look like on first layer
<il> oh, I've also had surprisingly rough last layers, I don't know how to fix that, maybe there's an option to decrease speed on last layer
<ghane> i used it for first layer with some metallic filament when first layer was supposed to be visible
<il> Ah, that could be interesting
<ghane> there is a setting called ironing
<il> I also wonder how it would look with one of those rolls that change color over time
<ghane> to smooth top layer
<il> Ah, I'll look for it on the next print
<il> I found ironing, it's in the advanced options heh
<il> So I guess what I was getting wasn't out of the ordinary, considering the existence of that option heh
<il> I also like the chime of the printer when it finishes a print hah
<ghane> il: first thing to do in the slicer, show all settings ;-)
<il> The good news and the bad news
<il> The measurements were good, I even left a bit too much leeway in some dimensions IMO
<il> The bad news: it looks like my remote is wearing underwear, I don't understand how I didn't realize before printing lmao
<ghane> lol
<ghane> nice
<il> I'm surprised that the default wall generator isn't arachne with orca slicer
<il> What are the downsides of arachne walls?
<ghane> dunno, was not always reliable last time I checked but that was a long time ago
<ghane> slicers are evolving strangely... arachne is something I was missing already in 2013 :-D
<il> Ironing is a game changer
<ghane> il: btw, it was 530-122 i have
<il> 1/50th mm precision
<il> excessive for my purposes, really heh
<ghane> yes, and do not recommend
<ghane> I'm actually considering getting one with 0.05mm scale insead for easier reading
<il> Yeah, 530-101 or 102 are probably good
<ghane> 102 is expensive
<ghane> lol, twice the price of 104
<il> hm
<ghane> Think you should go for the 500-157-30, then you would never ever need anything else!
<ghane> "only" €1000
<ghane> lol
<il> lemme look it up
<ghane> it has data logging output
<ghane> haha you can plug it directly to cad :D
<il> msrp 650 eur
<il> crazy
<il> it's 30cm long, though
<il> not very portable hah
<ghane> it was actually 9999SEK in the store I checked, so 650EUR was lower
<il> Yeah, most retailers probably sell above MSRP
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<il> I'm looking forward to this print being finished, a wrist rest for my ploopy adept trackball
<il> Too bad that it's in marble white filament, while my trackball is in black hah
<il> Maybe I should print a new case for my trackball?
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<ghane> any reason or just because? :-)
<il> So the colors match haha
<il> No reason, otherwise, I think this case will be the last thing to give in on this trackball
<il> It might outlast me, it's such a robust design
<ghane> well, why not? matching colors is not the worst reason ive heard :-)
<il> Because it might be more exciting to print things I don't have than things that I already do have haha
<il> That's the best reason against I can think of
<il> I want to model a DE razor holder for my 6-7 razors tomorrow
<ghane> :-)
<il> Oh, I might need a tip from you
<il> How thin can I go with some designs without fearing for strength?
<il> Like, 7 razors weigh maybe 300 grams, it doesn't have to hold kilos, so can I get away with like a 2mm 'back' wall of the holder?
<ghane> how much strength do you need?
<il> with PLA
<ghane> for tha usecase I think 2mm would be ok yes
<ghane> you can always play with infill too
<il> I've used 3mm parts for the actual clamp part of the vertical laptop stand I printed, and it seemed to have been stronger than necessary
<il> I need to re-do that design as well, the bottom foot is too short, the laptop is liable to tip back
<ghane> with PLA creep is a problem too, but dont see that as a problem for that use case
<ghane> wall mount or what you plan?
<il> What's creep?
<il> Oh, let me show something similar to that stand
<ghane> if PLA is under tension it will slowly deform
<il> Like this
<ghane> as behaving as a liquid and not a spring
<il> ghane: under how much tension
<il> I just realized that's a solvespace project
<il> I guess I don't need to re-do my model! hah
<ghane> :-)
<il> Great minds think alike, as they say
<il> only some are better at solvespace lol
<ghane> cant say sor sure, regarding tension it just slowly deforms if under constant load in some cases
<il> My design is also very similar, even though I haven't seen this exact one
<il> Ah, I guess PLA just acts a bit like a liquid
<il> A bit too plastic
<ghane> dont think that one would be a problem
<ghane> but if you make a hook for example
<il> Ah, I see
<il> I'm planning on getting those ikea skadis things and modeling and printing a bunch of organization items for it
<il> Hopefully I don't run into issues with PLA, but if I do... I know what to change
<il> Is PETG better in this regard?
<ghane> oh, SKÅDIS, havent seen them, good idea
<ghane> PETG is a bit better, but just try with PLA and reprint if it becomes a problem
<il> Yeah...
<il> Considering how much I've been printing, I think I also need to look into the most affordable way to get more filament haha
<ghane> bigger spools
<ghane> im trying to use locally (eu) produced filaments
<il> man, this guy's solvespace model is so much neater than mine, how can I step through and see how/in what order he did things?
<ghane> il: tool window? its just one sketch that is extruded?
<il> yeah
<ghane> property browser i meant
<il> Yeah, I understood
<il> Man, he used construction lines so well
<il> I'm still struggling with them
<ghane> most likely drawn outlines and then shift-A the rounded corners
<il> I also don't know how to make matching tangents
<il> I put matching distance/diameter constraints on them
<ghane> equals? (q)
<il> Yeah, but what do I select?
<il> the arc itself?
<ghane> the two segments you want to make equal
<ghane> it being a radius, lengt or angle
<il> I've never used it with tangent arcs, though
<il> and this guy has
<il> I like how he has used construction lines to keep distances between outlines constant, you can use the Q constraint on construction lines, but not on D constraints, so in that way, you can have only one changeable D constraint and have it cascade heh
<il> Still not completely perfect top layer, but huge improvement with ironingd
<il> There are some parts of the top surface it didn't entirely iron, and I can feel the difference under my finger
<il> This stand is basically a slope, so a perfect test for this feature lol
<ghane> il: you can adjust ironing settings a bit... does it do travel on top layer, try disable z lift to avoid dimples
<il> no dimples
<il> I'll share photos tomorrow, when I have access to sunlight heh
<ghane> sunlite? at this time of the year? ;-)
<ghane> what are you talking about? ;)
<il> ahah, there's still a bit every day
<il> And it beats my crappy lighting for macro photography
<il> I saw some setting for printing a 2 model plate 1 by 1 model, instead of layer by layer of both models at once
<il> but I can't find it now lol
<ghane> now I'm from southern Sweden, but there is a nice word in Finland: https://finland.fi/emoji/kaamos/
<ghane> il: yes its slightly hidden that setting
<ghane> il: in prisaslicer it is under Output options, called Complete individual objects
<ghane> s/prisaslicer/prusaslicer/
<il> naw, I can't do it, this is too tall
<il> it'd be in the way of the X rail even if the head cleared it
<il> annoying
<il> It's a 2 hour print
<il> what did I do
<il> oh, 54 minutes for inner wall
<il> it's because I'm using the strength preset lol
<ghane> 2-3 walls, 20% infill should do
<il> Yeah, for the laptop
<il> setting walls to 3 instead of 2 loops adds 9 minutes to the print, I think that's tolerable for the added security lol
<il> concentric bottom and top surface patterns, because it looks good (even though no one but me will ever look closely
<ghane> hillbert!
<il> and 3d honeycomp infill because... I don't know, this barely needs any, it's all walls lol
<ghane> but that will add like 1 hour lol
<il> ghane: hillbert basically looks like there are no lines with this marble filament
<il> It's like 2 layers of printing traces obfuscation
<ghane> il: if the model is thin... just increasing wall numbers to make it solid is sometimes an option
<il> Yeah
<il> I'm tweaking it now
<ghane> or skip infill and add more op layers
<ghane> top
<il> it's so neat that I can 'step through' the G code it generates and see how each layer will look
<il> What is lightning support, it's almost empty lol
<ghane> it will get denser as you go up
<il> Ah, it's just fast, not strong
<ghane> meant to support top surfaces only
<il> Yeah, not good in this case
<ghane> ehm, just... print with 5 outer shells, 0 infill and 0 top/bottom layers
<ghane> :D
<il> That would work
<il> I'm curious about which infill is best for speed/strength tradeoff lol
<il> I'm already min-maxxing
<ghane> gyroid is quite good
<il> this print of the wrist wrest took me damn 2.5 hours because I chose hilbert dense infill lol
<il> I should've checked how much time that added to the print before I started the print
<ghane> haha, hilbert infill does one thing: add print time
<ghane> probably not very strong either
<il> adaptive cubic seems like the fastest pick
<il> and I'd guess isn't the weakest heh
<ghane> it is not symetric iirc
<il> Should be strong as heck, but it's 2 plates and it'll take 2.5 hours to print hehe
<il> So that's something to do tomorrow
<il> Can I send this prepared print to the printer without printing it right away?
<ghane> dont know, but prusaslicer has that option at least
<il> doesn't seem to work, doesn't matter, i saved the 3mf file, whatever that is